Getting Your KTK Oval Printing IR Lamps Right
If you’re swapping out IR lamps in your KTK oval machine, you already know it’s not as simple as just checking the wattage. If the fit isn’t perfect, you’re asking for trouble. We build our sockets and lamps to be a true 1:1 match. They slide right into those M&R-style housings without you having to drill holes in the chassis or mess around with your control settings. It just works. The danger of “close enough” Here’s the thing: in this business, 2mm is the difference between a smooth run and a disaster. If the lamp length is off or the socket is a bit loose, you’ll get arcing. Then, your new lamp burns out way too soon. We make sure our dimensions match the original KTK gear exactly. But a quick heads-up—double-check your power supply. If you pop in a higher wattage lamp than your circuit can handle, you’re going to blow your contactors. Not a fun way to spend a Tuesday. Why the socket actually matters Most IR setups fail at the socket. It’s the weakest link. We use materials that can handle the constant heating and cooling without warping. You want a tight connection. Why? Because loose contacts create hotspots. Those hotspots melt the housing and kill the lamp. It’s all about the mechanical lock. When the lamp is snug, it stays centered in the reflector. If it shifts even a little, your heat goes wonky, and you’ll end up with cold spots on your garments. Real-world installation These are drop-in replacements. You pull the old tube, toss the socket if it looks charred, and slot in the new one. Easy. Just keep a couple of things in mind. If you crank up the heat density to speed up your curing, your exhaust system has to work harder. Make sure your ventilation is actually moving enough air, or the whole housing will overheat. And do yourself a favor: check your wires for brittleness before you start. Old, heat-damaged wiring can short out even the best new socket. Give them a quick look-over first.